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Here in the Learning Center, you’ll be able to search for home maintenance tips, find how-to videos and review warranty information for your David Weekley home. You’ll also find detailed descriptions of some of the construction materials and techniques used to build your home.
Learning Center
Your source for keeping your David Weekley home in great shape!
Learning Center
Your source for keeping your David Weekley home in great shape!
Here in the Learning Center, you’ll be able to search for home maintenance tips, find how-to articles and review warranty information for your David Weekley home. You’ll also find detailed descriptions of some of the construction materials and techniques used to build your home.
Regularly inspect your sprinkler system for proper performance and service as needed. Watering cycles should be adjusted seasonally. Use the Controller or Timer to adjust the frequency and duration of your watering cycles. Plants and sod require more watering during the summer than the fall, winter or spring.
To adjust the rate of water flow from the sprinkler heads, turn the screw clockwise to decrease the rate or turn counter-clockwise to increase the rate.
To prevent water from freezing in your sprinkler system during cold weather, you should flush your sprinkler system before cold weather arrives. This will remove any debris that has built up in the sprinkler lines and removes any obstructions. Contact a professional to flush your sprinkler system.
A shut-off valve for the gas line is located at or near its connection to each gas-operated appliance within your home and a main gas line shut-off valve is located at the exterior gas meter.
The water supply line is located beneath the kitchen sink. You may have three water supply lines beneath the sink; two lines connect directly to the faucet while the third line connects to the dishwasher. The valve connected to the right side of the faucet is the cold water supply line. Turn the cold water on the supply line clockwise to close it.
Your gutters and downspouts are designed to funnel water from your roof and disburse that water away from your home. Keep your gutters clean of debris and remove any ice or snow build-up as soon as possible. Do not lean ladders against the gutters as they are easily damaged.
Granite countertops can be a beautiful feature of your new home; however, granite does require care and maintenance to maintain its beauty over the years.
- Granite is a porous stone and it absorbs liquids quickly. You can purchase a spray-on sealant for your granite at most hardware and home improvement stores. Follow the directions provided by the manufacturer for applying the sealant. Generally, the sealant will need to be re-applied every year.
- Use trivets and hot pads, and do not place hot pots and pans directly on your granite countertops. Over time the heat can damage the surface of the granite tops.
- Use a cutting board rather than cutting directly on your granite countertops. This will both protect the surface of your granite and your knives.
- Use a coaster under all glasses, bottles and cans. While a properly sealed granite top should not absorb the condensation, as the sealant starts to wear off the coasters will protect your granite countertops until new sealant is applied.
Once or twice per week, wood flooring should be swept or vacuumed. Areas that are more heavily traveled should be cleaned more often. A dry, clean dust mop will get the finer particles left behind by sweeping or vacuuming.
Do not damp mop or use general cleaning products such as furniture polish or all-purpose cleaners that are not approved for wood flooring.
Remove any spills promptly using a clean, soft cloth and a spot cleaner recommended for wood flooring. Once every three months apply a high-quality floor cleaner specifically designed for hardwood flooring.
Use floor protectors under any heavy furniture or furniture that will frequently be moved such as chairs or tables. Glides, casters or a piece of carpet lying face down are helpful when moving heavy furniture across wood flooring.
Use a rug or mat near exterior entrances or in high traffic areas to prevent abrasive substances from coming into contact with your wood flooring. Do not use rubber-backed mats as they may cause damage to the wood flooring.
Please consult with the flooring manufacturer before using any type of cleaner on your wood flooring. We recommend that you spot clean a small test area before applying to the entire floor.
The interior doors installed in your home are wood products, subject to the natural shrinking and warping characteristics of wood. Natural humidity changes and the use of humidity-changing items (like showers and dishwashers) may cause slight changes in doors that require minor adjustments.
Sticking Doors - The most common cause of a sticking door is the natural expansion of lumber due to changes in humidity. When sticking is due to swelling during a damp season, do not plane (shave the wood on the side of the door) or sand the door unless it continues to stick when drier conditions persist.
If your door is sticking, try these solutions first:
- Apply a paste wax, light coat of paraffin or candle wax to the sticking surface.
- Tighten the screws that hold the door to the door frame.
If you must plane the door even after these measures, use sandpaper to smooth the area and paint the sanded area to seal against moisture.
- Squeaky Hinges - Remove the hinge pin and rub a lead pencil or graphite lubricant on the door hinge. Do not use oil or WD-40, as they will build up on the hinge.
- Door Won’t Latch - If a door won’t latch due to minor settling, raise or lower the strike plate as necessary.
- Bi-fold Doors - A bi-fold door folds at its vertical middle and follows a track. Sometimes this type of door can stick or warp due to weather conditions. Applying lip balm or a wax such as paraffin to the tracks can minimize inconvenience.
- Locks - Lubricate door locks with graphite or other waterproof lubricant. Avoid using oil or WD-40 since they will build up on the lock.
- Exterior Finish - The finishes on stained exterior doors weather faster than painted doors. To preserve a stained door and prevent it from drying and cracking, reseal your exterior doors every six to twelve months to protect the finish from the elements.
One way to reseal exterior wood doors is to lightly sand the door with fine sandpaper and apply a spray-on polyurethane coating (available at hardware or home improvement store.) This will allow you to seal the door without removing the door from its hinges. After a couple of years, the door should be professionally refinished.
- Warped Doors - If a door warps slightly, keep it closed as much as possible and this will often return the door to its original shape.
- Weather-stripping - Weather-stripping around exterior doors needs occasional maintenance to keep a good seal. Maintain the seal by firmly running a screwdriver, lubricated with wax, up and down the groove in the weather-stripping.
A well sealed door should be somewhat difficult to open and close; however, a slight air crack around the door is natural. When there is a particularly strong wind, you may hear a howling noise through the weather stripping.
Weather-stripping may become damaged from wear over time and will need to be replaced. You can purchase weather stripping at your local hardware or home improvement store.
Caulk seals out moisture where two surfaces come together throughout your home. Over time caulk will shrink and will need to be replaced. When it’s time to replace caulk, you will need to remove the old caulk, select the appropriate type of caulk for the surface, and install the new caulk.
There are two types of caulk used in your home:
- Silicone Caulks are generally used in the wet areas of your home – tubs, showers and sinks. Paint will not adhere to silicone caulk.
- Latex Caulks are used with more porous surfaces such as around trim and painted areas. During installation, latex caulk can be cleaned off with water whereas silicone caulk cannot.
Removing Old Caulk from the Tub and Shower
- Clean the work area with a combination bathroom surface cleaner/soap scum remover. This is an important step in a successful caulking job.
- To determine what kind of caulk you are removing, use a sharp knife and try to cut the old caulk. If the caulk is rubbery and somewhat soft, it is most likely a silicone caulk. If it is very hard, it is probably a water-based latex caulk.
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Silicone caulk can be removed with a utility knife. (Be careful and go slow so that you don’t cut the surface or yourself.)
To remove latex caulk, soften it with a hair dryer at medium to low temperature. Make sure to move the hair dryer back and forth over the caulk so that you do not overheat any one area. Once the caulk is soft, you can use a utility or putty knife to remove it.
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After you have removed the old caulk, clean the area again with an alcohol wipe and allow it to dry for a few minutes.
Please note: If there was mildew around the area, the alcohol will not kill it. You should use a commercial mildew remover on the area after wiping it with alcohol and before applying the new caulk. Be sure to follow the product instructions for the mildew remover.
Applying New Caulk to a Tub and Shower
- Make sure the area to be caulked is completely dry before you begin.
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Caulk vertical seams first and then other areas, working toward the outside. Apply a bead of fresh caulk no more than ¼-inch wide right into one of the joints. It is important not to have the caulk bead too wide.
Please note: If you are using a tube of caulk that requires a caulk gun for installation, do not cut too large of an opening in the end of the tube. For best results, cut an opening of ¼-inch to ½-inch.
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Moisten your finger with a damp sponge and glide it along the joint, pressing the caulk evenly into the joint. If you have applied the right amount of caulk, the gap between the end of your finger and the joint will smooth the caulk to a neat, even appearance.
If you have over-applied the caulk, try to remove the overage by using your finger and the sponge to wipe it off. If this still does not look right you may want to completely wipe the caulk out of the joint and try again.
- As you finish a section, if there are any spots that seem to have too little caulk, add a little extra and smooth it in with your finger.
When applying caulk, you must work quickly. It only takes a couple of minutes for the caulk to begin the drying process.
For best results:
- Plan on doing the whole job at one time. Try to eliminate any potential interruptions before you begin. If you stop in the middle of applying caulk and come back later to finish, the stopping/starting point may not seal well. This may allow an entry point for moisture and mildew growth.
- Let the caulk dry overnight before using the tub or shower.
Exterior Doors, Trim and Windows
- Remove any existing loose or failing caulk using a retractable razor-knife or putty knife.
- Trim the end of a new tube of caulk and place it in a caulk gun.
- Place the caulk gun over the gap or joint between the window and door frame and the house siding. Gently but steadily pull on the caulk gun handle to apply an even, smooth bead of caulk in the gap around the perimeter of the window or door. If accessible, be sure to include the window sill or door threshold as well.
- Smooth the caulk with a small putty knife so that it fills the gap and is flush with the two sides of the gap.
- To finish, wipe the newly sealed joint very gently with a damp cloth, taking care not to pull any of the fresh caulk from the gap.
- Let the caulk dry completely before painting (if appropriate).
Please refer to your Owner’s Manual
Filters
You should check your air filters on a quarterly basis, and clean or change as necessary. (Note: You should select a filter with a MERV rating between MERV 8 and MERV 11.)
A clogged filter can slow air flow to your system and damage the fan motor. This means that your air conditioner cannot run as efficiently as possible, resulting in higher energy bills. Excessive damage may render your air conditioner completely inoperable.
Changing a Filter
Filters are generally located in a large, metal grill assembly in a hallway or ceiling, which allow air to flow throughout the house. The grill assembly will look larger and slightly different than the air registers found in other rooms.
The grill will have a swing-down door that will allow you to access the actual filter. You can release the swing-down door using the small plastic or metal tabs on each side.
Once you access the filter, simply remove the old filter and replace with a new filter. Many filters have an arrow on the side that indicates which way the air should flow. Always point the arrow up or toward the furnace.
The filter for your fresh air system may also be located in the same return. You should check this filter any time you are replacing the other filter, and replace as needed.
Some filters can be located in the air handler unit in your attic. These filters will be accessed through a slide-out assembly. If you have any questions about accessing this type of filter, please contact our Warranty Service Team for assistance.
Acoustical Tile
Special tile for walls and ceilings made of mineral, wood, vegetable fibers, cork, or metal. Its purpose is to control sound volume, while providing cover.
Air Duct
Pipes that carry warm air and cold air to rooms and back to furnace or air conditioning system.
Ampere
The rate of flow of electricity through electric wires.
Apron
A paved area, such as the juncture of a driveway with the street or with a garage entrance.
Backfill
The gravel or earth replaced in the space around a building wall after foundations are in place.
Balusters
Upright supports of a balustrade rail.
Balustrade
A row of balusters topped by a rail, edging a balcony or a staircase.
Baseboard
A board along the floor against walls and partitions to hid gaps.
Batt
Insulation in the form of a blanket, rather than loose filling.
Batten
Small thin strips covering joints between wider boards on exterior building surfaces.
Beam
One of the principal horizontal wood or steel members of a building.
Bearing Wall
A wall that supports a floor or roof of a building.
Bib or Bibcock
A water faucet to which a hose may be attached, also called a hose bib or sill cock.
Bleeding
Seeping of resin or gum from lumber. This term is also used in referring to the process of drawing air from water pipes.
Brace
A piece of wood or other material used to form a triangle and stiffen some part of a structure.
Braced Framing
Construction technique using posts and cross-bracing for greater rigidity.
Brick Veneer
Brick used as the outer surface of a framed wall.
Bridging
Small wood or metal pieces placed diagonally between floor joists.
Building Paper
Heavy paper used in walls or roofs to dampproof.
Built-Up Roof
A roofing material applied in sealed, waterproof layers, where there is only a slight slope to the roof.
Butt Joint
Joining point of two pieces of wood or molding.
Bx Cable
Electricity cable wrapped in rubber with a flexible steel outer covering.
Cantilever
A projecting beam or joist, not supported at one end, used to support an extension of a structure.
Carriage
The member which supports the steps or treads of a stair.
Casement
A window sash that opens on hinges at the vertical edge.
Casing
Door and window framing.
Cavity Wall
A hollow wall formed by firmly linked masonry walls, providing an insulating air space between.
Chimney Cap
Concrete capping around the top of chimney bricks and around the floors to protect the masonry from the elements.
Chair Rail
Wooden molding on a wall around a room at the level of a chair back.
Chamfered Edge
Molding with pared-off corners.
Chase
A groove in a masonry wall or through a floor to accommodate pipes or ducts.
Chimney Breast
The horizontal projection-usually inside a building-of a chimney from the wall in which it is built.
Circuit Breaker
A safety device which opens (breaks) an electric circuit automatically when it becomes overloaded.
Cistern
A tank to catch and store rain water.
Clapboard
A long thin board, thicker on one edge, overlapped and nailed on for exterior siding.
Collar Beam
A horizontal beam fastened above the lower ends of rafters to add rigidity.
Coping
Tile or brick used to cap or cover the top of a masonry wall.
Corbel
A horizontal projection from a wall, forming a ledge or supporting a structure above it.
Corner Bead
A strip of wood or metal for protecting the external corners of plastered walls.
Cornice
Horizontal projection at the top of a wall or under the overhanging part of the roof.
Course
A horizontal row of bricks, cinder blocks or other masonry materials.
Cove Lighting
Concealed light sources behind a cornice or horizontal recess which direct the light upon a reflecting ceiling.
Crawl Space
A shallow, unfinished space beneath the first floor of a house which has no basement, used for visual inspection and access to pipes and ducts. Also, a shallow space in the attic, immediately under the roof.
Cripples
Cut-off framing members above and below windows.
Door Buck
The rough frame of a door.
Dormer
The projecting frame of a recess in a sloping roof.
Double Glazing
An insulating window pane formed of two thicknesses of glass with a sealed air space between them.
Double Hung Windows
Windows with an upperand lower sash, each supported by cords and weights.
Downspout Leader
Downspout A spout or pipe to carry rain water down from a roof or gutters.
Downspout Strap
A piece of metal which secures the downspout to the eaves or wall of a building.
Drip
The projecting part of a cornice which sheds rain water.
Dry Wall
A wall surface of plasterboard or material other than plaster.
Eaves
The extension of roof beyond house walls.
Efflorescence
White powder that forms on the surface of brick.
Effluent
Treated sewage from a septic tank or sewage treatment plant.
Fascia
A flat horizontal member of a cornice placed in a vertical position.
Fill-Type Insulation
Loose insulating material which is applied by hand or blown into wall spaces mechanically.
Flashing
Noncorrosive metal used around angles or junctions in roofs and exterior walls to prevent leaks.
Floor Joists
Framing pieces which rest on outer foundation walls and interior beams or girders.
Flue
A passageway in a chimney for conveying smoke, gases or fumes to the outside air.
Footing
Concrete base on which a foundation sits.
Foundation
Lower parts of walls on which the structure is built. Foundation walls of masonry or concrete are mainly below ground level.
Framing
The rough lumber of a house-joists, studs, rafters, and beams.
Furring
Thin wood, or metal applied to a wall to level the surface for lathing, boarding, or plastering, to create an insulating air space, and to damp proof the wall.
Fuse
A short plug in an electric panel box which opens (breaks) an electrical circuit when it becomes overloaded.
Gable
The triangular part of a wall under the inverted "v" of the roof line.
Gambrel Roof
A roof with two pitches, designed to provide more space on upper floors. The roof is steeper on its lower slope and flatter toward the ridge.
Girder
A main member in a framed floor supporting the joists which carry the flooring boards. It carries the weight of a floor or partition.
Glazing
Fitting glass into windows or doors.
Grade Line
The point at which the ground rests against the foundation wall.
Green Lumber
Lumber which has been inadequately dried and which tends to warp or "bleed" resin.
Grounds
Pieces of wood embedded in plaster of walls to which skirtings are attached. Also wood pieces used to stop the plaster work around doors and windows.
Gusset
A brace or bracket used to strengthen a structure.
Gutter
A channel at the eaves for conveying away rain water.
Hardwood
The close-grained wood from broad-leaved trees such as oak or maple.
Headers
Double wood pieces supporting joists in a floor or double wood members placed on edge over windows and doors to transfer the roof and floor weight to the studs.
Heel
The end of a rafter that rests on the wall plate.
Hip Roof
A roof that slants upward on three or four sides.
Hip
The external angle formed by the juncture of two slopes of a roof.
Jalousies
Windows with movable, horizontal glass slats angled to admit-ventilation and keep out rain. This term is also used for outside shutters of wood constructed in this way.
Jamb
An upright surface that lines an opening for a door or window.
Joist
A small rectangular sectional member arranged parallel from wall to wall in a building, or resting on beams or girders. They support a floor or the laths or furring strips of a ceiling.
Kiln-Dried
Artificial drying of lumber, superior to most lumber that is air dried.
King-Post
The middle post of a truss. Large, heavy screws, used where great strength is required, as in heavy framing or when attaching ironwork to wood.
Lag-Screws or Coach-Screws
Large, heavy screws, used where great strength is required, as in heavy framing or when attaching ironwork to wood.
Lally Column
A steel tube sometimes filled with concrete, used to support girders or other floor beams.
Lath
One of a number of thin narrow strips of wood nailed to rafters, ceiling joists, wall studs, etc. to make a groundwork or key for slates, tiles, or plastering.
Leaching Bed
Tiles in the trenches carrying treated wastes from septic tanks.
Ledger
A piece of wood which is attached to a beam to support joists.
Lintel
The top piece over a door or window which supports walls above the opening.
Load-Bearing Wall
A strong wall capable of supporting weight.
Louver
An opening with horizontal slats to permit passage of air, but excluding rain, sunlight and view.
Masonry
Walls built by a mason, using brick, stone, tile or similar materials.
Molding
A strip of decorative material having a plane or curved narrow surface prepared for ornamental application. These strips are often used to hide gaps at wall junctures.
Moisture Barrier
Treated paper or metal that retards or bars water vapor, used to keep moisture from passing into walls or floors.
Mullion
Slender framing which divides the lights or panes of windows.
Newel
The upright post or the upright formed by the inner or smaller ends of steps about which steps of a circular staircase wind. In a straight flight staircase, the principal post at the foot or the secondary post at a landing.
Nosing
The rounded edge of a stair tread.
Parging
A rough coat of mortar applied over a masonry wall as protection or finish; may also serve as a base for an asphaltic waterproofing compound below grade.
Pilaster
A projection or the foundation wall used to support a floor girder or stiffen the wall.
Pitch
The angle of slope of a roof.
Plasterboard (See Dry Wall)
Gypsum board used instead of plaster.
Plates
Pieces of wood placed on wall surfaces as fastening devices. The bottom member of the wall is the sole plate and the top member is the rafter plate.
Plenum
A chamber which can serve as a distribution area for heating or cooling systems, generally between a false ceiling and the actual ceiling.
Pointing
Treatment of joints in masonry by filling with mortar to improve appearance or protect against weather.
Post-And-Beam Construction
Wall construction in which beams are supported by heavy posts rather than many smaller studs.
Prefabrication
Construction of components such as walls, trusses, or doors, before delivery to the building site.
Rabbet
A groove cut in a board to receive another board.
Radiant Heat
Coils of electricity, hot water or steam pipes embedded in floors, ceilings, or walls to heat rooms.
Rafter
One of a series of structural roof members spanning from an exterior wall to a center ridge beam or ridge board.
Reinforced Concrete
Concrete strengthened with wire or metal bars.
Ridge Pole
A thick longitudinal plank to which the ridge rafters of a roof are attached.
Riser
The upright piece of a stair step, from tread to tread.
Roof Sheathing
Sheets, usually of plywood, which are nailed to the top edges of trusses or rafters to tie the roof together and support the roofing material.
Sandwich Panel
A panel with plastic, paper, or other material enclosed between two layers of a different material.
Sash
The movable part of a window-the frame in which panes of glass are set in a window or door.
Scotia
A concave molding.
Scuttle Hole
A small opening either to the attic, to the crawl space or to the plumbing pipes.
Seepage Pit
A sewage disposal system composed of a septic tank and a connected cesspool.
Septic Tank
A sewage settling tank in which part of the sewage is converted into gas and sludge before the remaining waste is discharged by gravity into a leaching bed underground.
Shakes
Handcut wood shingles.
Sheathing (See Wall Sheathing)
The first covering of boards or material on the outside wall or roof prior to installing the finished siding or roof covering.
Shim
Thin tapered piece of wood used for leveling or tightening a stair or other building element.
Shingles
Pieces of wood, asbestos or other material used as an overlapping outer covering on walls or roofs.
Shiplap
Siding Boards of special design nailed horizontally to vertical studs with or without intervening sheathing to form the exposed surface of outside walls of frame buildings.
Sill Plate
The lowest member of the house framing resting on top of the foundation wall. Also called the mud sill.
Skirtings
Narrow boards around the margin of a floor; baseboards.
Slab
Concrete floor placed directly on earth or a gravel base and usually about four inches thick.
Sleeper
Strip of wood laid over concrete floor to which the finished wood floor is nailed or glued.
Soffit
The visible underwide of structural members such as staircases, cornices, beams, a roof overhang or eave.
Softwood
Easily worked wood or wood from a conebearing tree.
Soil Stack
Vertical plumbing pipe for waste water.
Stringer
A long, horizontal member which connects uprights in a frame or supports a floor or the like. One of the enclosed sides of a stair supporting the treads and risers.
Studs
In wall framing, the vertical members to which horizontal pieces are nailed. Studs are spaced either 16 inches or 24 inches apart.
Subfloor
Usually, plywood sheets that are nailed directly to the floor joists and that receive the finish flooring.
Sump
A pit in the basement in which water collects to be pumped out with a sump pump.
Swale
A wide shallow depression in the ground to form a channel for storm water drainage.
Tie
A wood member which binds a pair of principal rafters at the bottom.
Tile Field
Open-joint drain tiles laid to distribute septic tank effluent over an absorption area or to provide subsoil drainage in wet areas.
Toenail
Driving nails at an angle into corners or other joints.
Tongue-And-Groove
Carpentry joint in which the jutting edge of one board fits into the grooved end of a similar board.
Trap
A bend in a water pipe to hold water so gases will not escape from the plumbing system into the house.
Tread
The horizontal part of a stair step.
Truss
A combination of structural members usually arranged in triangular units to form a rigid framework for spanning between load-bearing walls.
Valley
The depression at the meeting point of two roof slopes.
Vapor Barrier
Material such as paper, metal or paint which is used to prevent vapor from passing from rooms into the outside walls.
Venetian Window
A window with one large fixed central pane and smaller panes at each side.
Vent Pipe
A pipe which allows gas to escape from plumbing systems.
Verge
The edge of tiles, slates or shingles, projecting over the gable of a roof.
Wainscoting
The lower three or four feet of an interior wall when lined with paneling, tile or other material different from the rest of the wall.
Wall Sheathing
Sheets of plywood, gypsum board, or other material nailed to the outside face of studs as a base for exterior siding.
Weather Stripping
Metal, wood, plastic or other material installed around door and window openings to prevent air infiltration.
Weep Hole
A small hole in a wall which permits water to drain off.
